HOOD BY AIR - FW14 NYFW
HBA is upping the ante with this Fall collection and runway presentation. The clothes represent a hybrid industrial street collage more than ever- with zippers all over pants and sweaters, thick soled moon boots, and new textures such as leather, suede, and shearlings.
The blocking in color and design is still intact in a classic HBA way, but Shayne Oliver is incorporating an aesthetic reminiscent of his ballroom days, “It brought me back to the days when I was in the ballroom scene, how raw that was and finding every possible way of getting dolled up.” he says in a Dazed review.
Part of the styling included hardware heavy crowns of extensions and cut & paste collaging of photos of faces on the models’ faces. The platform boots, flare leather pants, and camel colored suede remind me of my late 90s, early 2000s Wet Seal phase of life I never thought I’d relive again. I donned a long, camel suede skirt with leather laces up two sides, had the same version as pants and a coat (worn together, I felt like a boss).
I feel like this collection is an homage to a time where glamour saw no borders, and Oliver presents us with an extremely dynamic array of both wearable art and a performance experience.
He ended the show with a slew of shirtless vogue dancers literally tearing up the runway with dips and twirling blonde hair. Some described it as an eat-your-heart-out moment in the face of Rick Owen’s step dancers as models. The ballroom and vogue scene is an integral context for Oliver’s work and essence in this world, and its uplifting to see queer poc representation infiltrating the ranks of an intense industry. Props to the new avant-garde, we salute you.
Full collection and photos by Jacob Breinholt here.
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